As summer turns to fall—the so-called “quiet season”—there’s usually a gap period between major exhibitions. In Britain, many seem to close mid-September, new ones opening later in the month. Last week, on a two-day trip to London, I made the most of what was available, and there was still an abundance. When I lived in this city, as a student (late 70‘s - early 80‘s), many of these venues, exhibits, and activities didn’t exist (or weren’t open to the public)!  Wow! Nor, did the traffic…

Here are some of the high- (and low-) lights—and recommendations—from my whistle stop tour:

DAY ONE

• Tate Modern
No feature exhibit, but great to experience the building, ambiance, and other collections.  Would have liked to have taken the bridge connecting to the other side of the Thames, or the boat to the Tate Britain.  Maybe next time!

• Garden Museum, Lambeth
Quaint, but not as remarkable as anticipated from write-ups. Likely, nicer to coincide a visit with their events and lectures. Pleasant surprise: vegetarian restaurant’s pineapple and banana cake is yummy! Also, from here, I made a little detour towards and along the Thames, noticing newer attractions like the London Eye Ferris Wheel.

• Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms
An absolute must-see!  Even for those not interested in war, the history, memorabilia and presentation are excellent. Lots to think about, marvel over, and learn from! Also, note the "green" lunch delivery service at an adjacent government building:-)

• Thames Circular Cruise
Disappointing. Supposed to be an hour, but little more than 40 minutes. And, with no commentary, it was hard to know what all the sites and details were. Would have been nice to hear some local tales and history. Too bad the driver was busy texting…and not always looking!  Maybe during off-season efforts wain?

• Big Ben
Always there. Ever powerful, from every angle.  Wonderfully restored and in its 150th anniversary year (1859 - 2009)!

• Trafalgar Square Exhibits
Anthony Gormely’s One and Other was unimpressive.  Participants are not as high off the ground as imagined, if you walk the perimeter of the square.  I arrived at a “changing of the guard.”  Travel to the North of England (Mersey River’s Crosby Beach) to see a much more remarkable work by Gormley, the Another Place Figures.

The London Design Festival’s Centrepiece Chess Board was drawing a healthy crowd.

• Noel Coward Theatre, Calendar Girls
Lovely theater and easy to buy a last-minute upper balcony ticket at the door, prior to performance, then have a seat upgrade to the stalls!  Poor attendance for what, to me, seemed to work better as a movie then a play. Jerry Hall being in the cast was a plus, but not enough to keep me from dozing off. Long day!

DAY TWO

• Natural History Museum and Darwin Centre
The new Darwin Centre is incredible. Next time, hope to make it into the Cocoon!  Just caught the end of the Butterfly Jungle exhibit. Love the architecture and design of the original historic buildings. Just seeing and being in them is a great experience in itself.  Same goes for the V and A (next paragraph, below).

• Victoria and Albert Museum, London Design Festival, Sackler Centre
A great collaboration. Two (or three) for the price of one—in fact, no price. Each were free (and easy)!  Please check the heart artifact I had the opportunity to make during a London Design Festival activity, the Shape of My Heart (close up image at the start of this post can be found on the official Heart site as well). The Sackler Centre is a wonderful addition and resource—helps bring the museum (and beyond) to life!  As an undergrad, I spent many hours in the V and A library. No Sackler Centre then!  Also managed to catch the Telling Tales exhibit!

• Saatchi Gallery
Being a Saatchi on-line Gallery artist, I was very curious to see this new beyond cyber space venue. What an accomplishment!  It’s also interesting to note the setting, close to Sloane Square:  a luxe and lovely part of town!  Then there’s the school playing field and track just in front of it, full of little people enjoying gym classes.

• Kensington Palace and Gardens… and The Last Debutantes
1958, the year focused on by the palace’s feature exhibit was a significant time for me. I was about to come into being, but not as a debutante:-)  An interesting era with a lot of attention to detail, etiquette, couture, and culture.  Precious and lacking today!  Lucky with the weather. A glorious season to be outside there:  the swans and geese were plump and abundant, preening in the glow of an autumn dusk.

• Hyde Park and Princess Diana Fountain
You can get lost here.  But on a beautiful autumn evening, and if you’ve got the time, that’s okay…  The signage isn’t evident everywhere.  To find the Diana Fountain, down by the Serpentine, far from the Diana Playground, wasn’t easy (at least for me). The Fountain, itself, I thought, was disappointing—looked to me like a series of drain outlets: some flowing well, others not.  No adornment and nothing remarkable. I could, of course, have been missing something?

Royal park dog poop bins were neat and official looking. Could do with similar around Toronto:-)

 

CITY TRANSPORTATION

Wondering how I got around?  Via the Oyster travel card.  Worth the investment, but please be advised to take the tube for speed, buses if you’ve got all the time in the world… The Number 10 bus (from Hyde Park to Euston) took 1 hour and 15 mins! Oxford Street is particularly slow and congested (especially at rush hour) and there are easier ways to cross it…  Missed my train!  Nice that Euston Station now has such an amazing selection of take-out eateries!  Prête à Manger won out for me. Delicious advocado wrap!

A beautiful visit, like a beautiful butterfly (from the Natural History Exhibit):  too short-lived but very memorable.

 

Earlier posts about London on this blog include:

• LONDON Landmarks Change (March 2, 2008)
• Green LONDON: from Pink Cabs to Green Attitude (February 27, 2008)
• Taxi, Taxi! LONDON’S Colorful Cabbies (February 25, 2008)
• Sentimental and Historical London—A Quick Guide (October 7, 2007)

 

Check out the Magnolia Bakery on New York’s Upper West Side.  What’s old is new again.  Not  everyone is on a diet!  Fun to watch the baking process…

 

Usually, pictures say more than words.  And, in the age of digital photography, it’s hard to resist the urge to snap most everything in sight.  Here’s a small sampling of favorite photographic memories from last year.  

BOSTON

City improvement:  Copley Square restoration

Farmer’s Market, Copley Square

Painter’s Statue:  John Singleton Copley, Copley Square

Peaches:  Copley Square Farmers’ Market

Peppers:  Copley Square Farmers’ Market

Wildflowers explained (Old South Church)

Wildflowers in the city (Old South Church)

CHICAGO

Friendly Policeman:  River North

Fun way to see a city:  Chicago by Segway

Picture postcard waterfront

Pretty pink sail boat at sunset, Lake Michigan

Smile-provoking city-wildlife: ducklings on Lake Michigan

Unexpected skyscape at sunset, Grant Park

Other favorite photographic memories from 2008 are included in:   What to See and/or Do in 2009. Photos, Memories, Ideas, and Surprises from 2008. PART 2 (January 29, 2009) and What to See and/or Do in 2009. Photos, Memories, Ideas, and Surprises from 2008. PART 3 (January 31, 2009).

 

Last Friday evening, passing through Yorkville, I noticed a bunch of empty tables:  at Sassafraz, Café Nervosa, Dimmi, Remy’s, Lettieri—all the usual hangout corners.  At  6:30 - 7:00 pm you could take your pick.  So, spontaneously, I decided to stick around:  choose a restaurant where I’d not been before—Flow.  Since the dogs were with me, this worked out well. They could perch on the perimeter hedge of the patio in the comfort of their travel bag, with a view out onto the Hazleton Hotel and One.  The waiters were attentive and kind.  A large bowl of iced water was served to them, and a sliver of duck from a complimentary amuse gueule.  My own dinner of blackened cod and root fries, followed by meringue, was also nicely presented and delicious.  It’s very easy to (be made to) feel uncomfortable when dining solo. But, for some reason, I had the contrary experience here.  By 8ish the Ronnie Hawkins Band was heating up on the roof of an adjacent parking lot and the rain had started to come down.  The night was just beginning, and the opening weekend of the Toronto International Film Festival underway…

 

Last weekend, on an overcast Saturday afternoon, the restaurant at Debenham’s in the new Liverpool One was bustling.  There was a menu card on every table advertising chocolate soups.  But, from what we saw, we were the only customers ordering one.  The "hubble bubble" looked good in the photo (and as above), but, according to my niece, a chocolate aficionado, it was a little disappointing.  So, off to the plush new two-storey Costa Coffee on the corner of Lord Street we went, and found a triple chocolate muffin.  This got a five star rating, and satiated her craving!  They also have soya milk latté there—and it rivals Canada’s Lettieri’s.

 

I’m back to indulging in the occasional soya latte!  And, at Yonge/St. Clair (on St. Clair) it’s from Lettieri.  The other morning, a heart formed on top (as pictured above).  Fun!  You’ll also find Hero Certified Burgers in the same premise—the best (healthiest and most creative) burgers in town. Try their Wild Alaskan Salmon Filet or Soul burgers for a change. Yum!

p.s. Regular readers might remember my Unscientific Study of Coffee from July 19, 07 

 

These can be found in Killarney at Herbert Fisheries.  Maybe because the fish is caught fresh, and you see it being prepared? Maybe because country air and exercise give you an appetite?  Maybe because there aren’t many other options in the area?  Whatever the case, this ever-busy stand keeps visitors lining up—and satiated!  Most important, the batter is light and right—nutritious and delicious!

 

 

It’s like Liverpool hit the fast-forward button all of a sudden!  As somebody who hasn’t lived there for more than a quarter of century, its a lot easier for me to see this.  First came the Albert Dock complex, then the Capital of Culture, and now Liverpool One. 

Though there’s still hard hats, cranes, and construction everywhere, on a beautiful sunny day, this week, I was thrilled to see my hometown revived and bustling.

 

Please check out some of the posters inserted below that tell a little more about this new landmark.

 

Better still, go visit Liverpool.  You will be surprised, delighted, and entertained.  The shopping isn’t bad either…

When more carefully manicured cities, like Toronto, feel bereft of ambiance and energy in comparison, it’s clear something is working right in Liverpool.  The graphic design for its construction posters (inserted above), also helps with mood.  I couldn’t think of a city where the heart symbol fits better. You can say a lot else about Liverpudlians, but you can’t deny their friendliness, directness, humor, spirit and heart.  HeArTs off to them!  

Christopher Hart (no heart-typo) made this interesting comment in a Times Culture supplement after Paul McCartney’s recent Liverpool concert, "It’s a battered and bleeding heavyweight of a city, struggling to haul itsel off the canvas.  But it has an astonishing charisma—and I can still hear the sound of 35,000 voices ringing in my ears, singing about "times of trouble" and "all the lonely people" and "take a sad song and make it better."

A comment on the Liverpool 08 home page by Alexei Sayle states, "I’ve been all over the world looking for excitement, and it turns out that the most thrilling town I’ve ever visited is the one I was born in."  Right now, many non-resident Liverpudlians will find it hard not to agree!

Special occasions often call for unique settings in which to celebrate.  These are places that you visit once, hoping to experience something out of the ordinary—not with the notion of getting a "good deal."

Recently, I joined friends for a one-of-a-kind evening at C5 (the restaurant/lounge under the ROM’s Michael Lee-Chin Crystal). What we will remember most about the venue:  high prices, miniscule portions, unique decor.

At this new Toronto dining attraction, you’re clearly paying for ambiance and originality.  Though the food is tasty (what there is of it), those not on calorie controlled diets may need to go home to a hearty meal later—or fill up on treats at a movie afterwards, as we ended up doing.

Europeans love their dogs, and make them a big part of their lives, in public as well as at home.

When out for drinks (at a restaurant) dogs can come too.

 

Shopping for food, dogs are part of the family, no problem.

Cycling about town, some dogs have their own special trailers.

Then there are all the dog specialty shops.  There’s even one for doggy antiques in old-town Geneva!

 

Finally, many cities make a stroll in the park or street easier—providing clean-up bags and bins, free of charge.