As I walked through Leicester Square last September (07), the bells on top of the landmark Swiss Centre chimed, an array of tourists and super sized Beefeater impersonator standing by.

With a redevelopment of this site, I was happy to have witnessed its last days.  I remember, during the late 70’s- early 80’s, when I was a student in London, the Swiss Center was a "hot spot."

 

What happened in the interim, to this and so many other familiar places?  Everything changes… When we’re around all the time, we might not notice.  When we’re away for long periods, differences can be striking!

On my overnight visit to London last September (07), I noticed that London’s signage has definitely improved.  It tells tourists (and locals) exactly how long it might take to walk from one place to another.

 

It also advises where CCTV cameras are watching!  (There’s 10,000 of them!)

 

What’s not improved are the one-way streets.

 

Then there’s the traffic congestion.  Public transport is encouraged.  But, sometimes, that too can be quiet overwhelming, with red buses appearing to be coming at you from every direction, especially at Picadilly Circus.

 

You don’t have to look very far to see Londoners are going "green."  Their awareness and habits are revealed in a few quick snaps from my overnnight visit there last September.  

An electric car

Organic food businesses, as advertised on this van

City of Westminster recycling at Covent Garden

A carbon neutral taxi

 

A wooden playground

 

There’s also a free magazine for pick-up in the doorway of many stores, called New Consumer.  I chanced on its fifth birthday edition last September (07).

In North America, we’ve just started to hear about "pink cabs." The Pink Ladies cab company was started in Warrington (Northern England), in 2005, and has been so successful it’s now looking for franchisees. Pink cabs are driven by women for women, saftey and comfort being paramount.  In the days when all British cabs were black, "Pink Ladies" might have stood out.  Now they are part of an already colorful streetscape.

I hadn’t been in London for quite a while till Fall 07. (I still haven’t managed to finish writing about that trip on this blog, with so many other life/travel interruptions.)  When there, I couldn’t help but think how much brighter a place this city has become because of its colorful cabbies. Traditional "stiff upper lip" black vehicles are transformed into mobile advertising machines.  When I noticed the first colourful cab, I thought it was a one-off vehicle.  Then, each way I turned, I saw another and yet another.  Time to pull out the camera and start snapping.  Cab after cab, I collaged their images into a poster (inserted above) on returning home.  Funny what strikes us on our travel adventures.  I’d never have thought that cabs would capture my attention like this.  I suspect their ads are working! You certainly can’t help but notice them.

Other ads, I was aware, were displayed by humans.  I chanced on a bunch of placard supporters close to Covent Garden station.  I didn’t envy their job, sitting there holding arrow signs to local businesses. Fortunately, it was a balmy September morning.  I don’t know how widespread or seasonal this form of (in)human(e) advertising might be…

 

What’s sentimental for one person, might not be for another.  My recent overnight visit to London had me surprising myself by the photos I took—what I might not have given any special attention to, on a daily basis, when living there.  I was a student in London from 1979 - 1981, and my recollections go back to then.

Unfortunately, the shots in this blog entry (taken in less than 24 hours) could only cover a fraction of the city, from Picadilly to Bloomsbury.

Nothing seems to change with Fortnum and Mason, at least externally.  Its neighbor Simpsons was turned into Waterstones a while back (making it the biggest bookstore in Europe), giving Picadilly a slightly different feel.

 

Something that will never move from directly across the street is the Royal Academy.

My timing was lucky!  I got to catch the exhibit, Impressionists by the Sea. I also got to dash through the National Portrait Gallery.  However, a display in the lobby from the book cover of Zerbanoo Gifford’s new book, Confessions to a Serial Womaniser made me slow down for a moment.  Her wall-like display of womens’ faces made me think of my wall-like display of food options (my upcoming Florence Biennale exhibit, Buon Appetito!)

And talking of food, Food for Thought, an old vegetarian haunt of mine (close to Covent Garden)  looked exactly the same (from the outside).  Too early to go in, they were stocking up…

Neal’s Yard, a well-known health food establishment is also still there.  But, it has evolved—looks (and tastes) a little less "natural" (according to my memories).

Covent Garden seems to be changing all over, but not Floral Street, where The Sanctuary (a pioneering spa) looks like it’s still going strong—with Agnes B, Campers, Radley, and more, all at close proximity.

The Covent Garden Market area, itself, has been spruced up.  Arriving before opening hours, I got to see the merchants setting out their wares.  It’s quite a job unpacking and repacking every day!

Wandering from the main area, I felt the cobblestones beneath my feet.  What history they hold!  Who has walked over them before?  Who is walking over them now?  How long can they stay as they are?

In London, history and modernity dance before our eyes, as do traditions, habits, and brand development.  Other coffee shops, chains and one-of-a-kind (Café Nero, The Brew Café, Cafe Life, Espresso Capucino) give Starbucks a lot of competition.

Long "tea breaks" still seem to be popular with workmen, throughout the day.

And, after work, it’s the pub. Beer drinkers spill out onto the street to enjoy a balmy September evening (after a rotten-weather summer):

Then there’s all the theaters, large and small.  What fun to be able to go and see something light! Boeing Boeing was at the Comedy Theater on Panton Street—a charming setting for an evening’s entertainment.    

By the way, though Bloomsbury and its adjacent neighborhoods may be a little off the well-beaten tourist path (except for the landmark British Museum), it’s worth a meander.  Check out all the eating options on and around Charlotte Street…as well as the picturesque side-lanes. Then there’s Dr. Marie Stopes’ first birth control clinic.

You never realize the contrasts you’ll notice when you keep your eyes open—things that have always been there, but might not have attracted attention or mention, previously (like this "lady of the night").

 

For me, British newspapers can’t be beaten.  It’s a greater delight to read them when you don’t get the opportunity every day—and can hold the paper variety in your hands (clip and highlight interesting articles).  On my train journey from London to Liverpool (September 21, 07), I had a chance to catch up on a few favorite publications.  By coincidence, articles in them resonated with what I’d just become aware of during my 24 hour visit to London.  

In The Times, there was an article by Ben Hoyle, the Arts Reporter, "Record visitors to Tate as appetite increases for art."  Hoyle noted:  "Attendance at the four galleries in London, St Ives and Liverpool was 20 percent up on the previous financial year."  However, Sir Nicholas Serot, Tate director did advise of financial issues, with a reliance on revenue generated from shop sales, catering, and sponsorship. (Remember, in Britain, museum admission is free!)

The Times also focused on Arabian investments in Britain.  A headline read, "Middle East investors bring oil-enriched wallets to City."  Sub-headers were, "Arab rivals gear up for struggle over London Stock Exchange" and "Sainsbury’s sale enters final stages as Qataris see the books."  In addition, there was a complete section devoted to Saudi Arabia, where I a sub-heading caught my attention, "Mushtak Parker learns that Saudi Arabia is also looking for a bigger role in Canada."  According to the article, right now, bilateral trade is a mere $1.2 billion.  And, Dr. Abdulaziz al -Sowayegh, the Saudi Ambassador to Canada is quoted as saying, "Canada is looking to diversify its trade partners in various regions.  The kingdom is well placed to become one of the main trade and investment partners in Canada, not only in the region but far beyond." Apparently, the Saudis would like to discuss a free trade agreement to boost bilateral ties.

Another Times header, "Ride a bike?  You must be rich," also captured my attention, especially after I’d seen a proliferation of warning signs for bikers posted in the streets (like the one included at the start of this blog entry).

Ben Webster, The Times Transport Correspondent, comments, "Brands have helped to turn the bicycle into a lust worthy object," and there’s a large photo of Zoe Ball to accompany the article—glamming her way along, no helmet evident.  According to Webster, the richest fifth of the population cycle, on average, two and a half times as far in a year as the poorest fifth. Webster states, "The Department for Transport national survey indicates that the poorest fifth, despite being five times less likely to have access to a car, are very unlikely to consider cycling as a solution to their transport needs."  And, referencing the London Cycling Campaign, Webster remarks, "People on higher incomes may be more concerned about the health benefits of cycling."  A spokesman for the campaign was quoted as saying, "’People on lower incomes may be more concerned with the need to earn money than worrying about what constitutes healthy living or about the issue of climate change and how cycling is the greenest option.’"

The News Section of The Daily Telegraph (page 12) had a large photo of a sculpture by 26 year-old Canadian artist, Camille Allen. Apparently, she’s become known internationally for her clay polymer new born baby works.  I was struck by the placement of the photo.  The bottom half of the page had ads and surrounding it there were briefer news articles.

Also, among The Telegraph’s other photos was one titled, "Make way for the treadmill toddlers."  Obesity among youngsters in Britain (and worldwide) is clearly becoming a real problem!

Again, in The Telegraph, there was a farewell to the QE2. It made a last stop in Liverpool, September 21, on its 40th birthday tour, and was docked for the opening of a new cruise liner terminal there.  Final destination Dubai, where it’ll become a floating hotel.

Finally, also, in The Telegraph, was Con Coughlin’s headline revelation, "The Israelis have unearthed a new and deadlier axis of evil"  Coughlin’s writes about Syria, explaining that reports from Israel suggest a secret nuclear compound at Dayr az-Zawr, which US satellites now show as a pile of rubble after eight Israeli F-15 bombers destroyed the site, the night of September 6, 07.  Summing things up, Coughlin stresses the extent to which Syria, North Korea and Iran are acting as a "new axis of evil"—"cooperating to make the world a far more dangerous place than it was on September 11."

Saturday afternoon, it was a pleasure to have been invited to "paint for a cause"—U Quest’s Urban Angels.  Sadly, billed "celebrity artists," like Vivian Reiss weren’t able to stick around.  But, alongside David Arathoon, I put brush to canvas for a good few hours—as did some official sponsors and a group of OCAD students.  Monte Kwinter opened the festivities, talking about his personal art education (coincidentally including a stint in Boston at the Art Institute) and contributed a series of red brush strokes.  

 

 

 

 

 

The 80 foot canvas in front of UrbanQuest’s town house development site will be cut up and auctioned to help raise money for arts and literacy programs for disenfranchised youth.  Vivienne Ziner is the mastermind behind the Uquest Vision, and she is gathering a growing list of corporate/institutional supporters, including Ecomedia, Whippersnapper Gallery, and Toronto Public Library.  Then there’s a list of individual donors, topped by Linda Frum.  This private initiative was definitely an "art in action" experience, and warmed my art-spirit.

 

 

 

 

 
Unfortunately, Saturday evening, afterwards, cooled my art-spirit.  Scotia Bank’s Nuit Blanche event ran from 7:03pm to sunrise, throughout downtown Toronto.  Mayor Miller, in the cover page of its substantial program-book announced, "In my first term as Mayor, I championed Toronto’s cultural renaissance by launching Nuit Blanche."  He then added, "Scotiabank Nuit Blanche allows our artists to showcase the cultural energy that sets our city apart from any other place in the world, and bolsters Toronto’s status as a city that honors its artists and creative communities."  

Well, everyone is entitled to their own opinion.  A policeman directing pedestrian traffic at Avenue and Bloor quipped, "If this was in London, or anywhere else in Europe, there’d actually be something to see."  It was easy to concur (having just returned from there).  The streets were full of crowds but art projects were scant (a few video installations jumped out here-and-there).  Where were the street performers and visual art monuments?  Instead, a mobile tap water van was parked outside the ROM advertising a City of Toronto’s positives.  However, the whole grand boulevard leading up to and through Queen’s Park was bereft of any real attractions.  U of T had something that looked like a fake fire happening—or maybe it was real (fire trucks and an ambulance arrived).  People lined up around the block on Cumberland, I was told for a "TTC sound installation," but where was the street music—the ambiance/the energy?  Regular street-level galleries were jammed, for a change.  Too bad they don’t get similar attention, year round.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"Live With Culture" banners have been hung throughout the city if you look up on street posts.  In "Zone A" (Yorkville through to Queens Park), fresh designs make pretty decorations. In Zone B, along Spadina (into China Town/Kensington Market) remnants from 2005/6 have been left (as they were).  From the numbers of participants out on the street, it’s clear they were seeking something—hopefully culture.  Or, was it just a chance to enjoy a balmy autumn evening with friends en plein air?  As someone who walks the walk (is impassioned to paint and write, day-in-day-out), I really wonder.  I think some were just there for the free Ritter Sport Chocolate being hurled into the crowd on Hazelton (across from the new Hazelton Hotel)—and related marketing photo-ops.

Mayor Miller’s Nuit Blanche program message concludes by thanking Scotia Bank and all other sponsors and partners for making this "’free all-night contemporary art thing" happen.  As I think about my own "free all-year contemporary art privilege" to represent Canada at the Florence Biennale without any support (financial, or otherwise—not even a returned e-mail), from Mayor Miller’s band of funders and associates, I can paint a completely different picture of culture/art in Toronto and hands-on support and respect for its emerging artists—a feeling of being better appreciated abroad than at home.

p.s.  Please check out Sarah Milory’s October 1, 07 Globe and Mail article, "A fun night at the art circus," for a more detailed account of Nuit Blanche—and suggestions for improvement.

 

Virgin trains are infamous among Brits for their delays and diversions.  I can now confirm this from personal experience.  My Liverpool - London train, last week, got diverted to Coventry, clipping the time I got to spend in London.  That’s the bad news!  Then, though I’d booked a regular ticket for the return to Liverpool, I somehow ended up in a First Class carriage (not that there was anything wrong with Second Class—every seat has its own electrical outlet).  That’s the good news!

What a treat first class was—or would have been, had I known in advance, and not slipped into Marks and Spencer to buy refreshments. (M and S has become so user-friendly, with mini-stores at train and gas stations, throughout Britain, you know you can pick up a decent snack from them almost anywhere anytime.) 

First Class Virgin passengers are served unlimited meals and drinks (including wine and alcohol), and are offered an array of complimentary reading materials and other resources.  The tableware and accessories aren’t paper or plastic, the seats comfortable, and crew very friendly.  The journey back passed so fast, I wasn’t ready to get off the train!  There’s also First Class Lounges at key stations.  Had I known…! 

In the little red book placed on every table on the train, there’s a note on the front page, with an e-mail address. If you’ve been "particularly impressed" with the service received by staff on the train, they want to know at feelgood@virgintrains.co.uk.  

I think about my Amtrak experiences on the Boston - New York route, when living in Boston.  Performance, or lack of it (as well as train station food and other compensations) don’t compare!